Thursday, 28 July, 2011
Benque Viejo del Carmen, Belize
I was sitting in my cabin, on the outskirts of the jungles of Belize, on the border of Guatemala, where the anti-aircraft missiles used to point at.
I was just sitting there and behind me the rotweiler pup splayed out sideways, like a sleeping black virgin, begins to whine and whistle in secret distress. His eyes were closed and he was so young and his barks were more like rubber toy squeeks: like he was a bath toy and there was some invisible ghost sitting on his chest.
It didn't go on long, and then he was asleep again.
The whole affair must have taken only a couple of seconds, and any other time it would have just passed me by, just like any other dream. I rarely remember my own dreams, let alone a dog's. And I couldn't wake him up and ask what was the matter. But I wanted to. And it seemed he was crying out for someone, a plea for help, to be lifted away from some malicious pursuer.
Here the lands are filled with barking dogs. They bark for no reason at all, simply to communicate, saying hello to the other invisible barks coming from a hundred yards away. And the dogs are all chained up to trees, never let off to go and meet or even see where the other barks are coming from. They are like a correspondence community transmitting in nocturnal barks.
They are not vicious – well, not most of them – the highest fences have the worst dogs, and strays are the most languid and carefree of the lot. It doesn't matter how well they are kept, they all share the same meager hardships; the fleas, the heat, the rain and their masters. It doesn't matter who the master is, the culture of master is always the same. JD says that their job is simply to sit there and bark when someone comes. These two have spent years tied to the same spot.
They have their job, and they get fed, and if we let them off the leash they won't know what to do with themselves. They'll eat all the chickens and curdle the cows' milk. So we leave them there in the brush, tied up with their heavy chains, and the beauty of it is their dancing.
Sometimes I'm on my way up the hill to the barbed-wire fence to take a leak and let the heat out, and I see them: They've pricked their ears up, raising their necks attentive to my every move, and the one up the hill under the cedar tree will start to dance. He's learned the chain will bite into him if he jumps forward, so he's started to jump backward with his hind legs. He'll keep on like that, dancing in circles around his chain and I am struck with the enthusiasm he pays his leaking visitor.
This visit to the farm I wake up late most days, usually 6:00 a.m., for my icy cold bath of rainwater, and when I stand there naked in the dawn grey, pickled from head to toe in white goosebumps, I look at the cringing mut on the other side of the barbed-wire fence and wonder why is he frightened? There must be something I cannot see which has warned him, some guiding hand to take the noise of the dance from his bark and his spring.
Whenever I approach to bring him scraps of chicken skin or bones, he'll watch me while hiding behind his kennel. Last time was just the opposite, and he was barking and straining at the chain, drooling from his chops all over the sharp stones under his feet. Is this the same dog that I remember? Julio the caretaker says most dogs don't live longer than a few years here, as there is no shortage of dogs on the farms.
I turned around and that pup lying on the concrete floor behind me is watching me. Like he is sniffing my spirit to see if I will chase him. I pretend to ignore him and just turn around, so he stays lying there. But I'm hungry and so get up to have some breakfast. There was an eagle that came before I was here. She butchered twenty hens and JD brought it down with his shotgun. He took a picture of the wounded bird and put it in a book. He is a wounded man, and is losing too much money.
People keep stealing things from under his nose. And when I went to the caretaker's house to ask about the eggs, Umberto the caretaker's assistant said there were no eggs. He's a young boy and doesn't yet know how to lie properly. I shrugged and went back to tell JD, who hit the roof. Too many setbacks and he is behind schedule.
The eggs are there, but I don't want to beat it out of Umberto, because I just arrived for the second time, and it's not me who pays him. JD should have the honour of beating him: You should get what you pay for. Instead, he sent me back to speak with Umberto, to offer him a dollar to go buy eggs from the neighbouring caretaker, who probably hates him. Umberto suddenly remembers that there are actually eggs and goes inside his house to retrieve them, but I send him for more anyway, as he has already eaten too many and there are only two left.
How do you treat a worker who lies to you like that? JD's inclination was to pummel him, but he thought better of it because that will only make him resent and steal from you. Eggs are one thing, but they might sell a cow and say it died, or break into the cabin while we are away. The whole irony, JD says, is that we treat them better than they treat their own. It's one thing for the foreigner boss man to have it over you, but it's another thing entirely if it's someone you consider one of your own people.
Julio the caretaker is always sending Umberto off to do the dirtiest jobs, anything JD sends Julio to do, he will simply heap it on little Umberto. But JD says that the farm is a tricky place. The animals are tied to your own life, and we all live and share in the same space.
They eat us and, all in good time, we will eat them.
The more time you spend on the farm the more you treat yourself like the animals.
Julio is a prime case.
The man's got leukemia and could die at any minute, but JD's got him doing chores, keeping him moving, and he treats it like normal. He just came back from his homeland in Guatemala, across the border. There is some Swiss pharmeceutical company giving him free treatment, which would otherwise cost over US$4000 a month.
JD said this is a bad sign, because they would never have given him such expensive treatment free if they didn't think he was going to kark it at any moment. I don't know what JD will do if Julio gets taken down by that leukemia.
But Julio doesn't seem to notice, he gets his transfusions where they pump a new body of blood into him every few months, and like clockwork, every month the black-faced mut just keeps on coming back for more. JD says that compared to all the crap Julio's been through in his life, having leukemia is as much of a nuisance as a mosquito bite.
Before he ran away to Belize he was drafted into the army, and before that he was fighting the army in the resistance. He joined the resistance because his entire village was slaughtered by the army and he had to survive on rainwater in the hurricanes and the jungles for weeks... The dogs are barking again. It's probably nothing. You can never get into these things' heads, and who'se to say if they are lonely, or just afraid of the quiet.